The Milestone, London
Every escape starts with a reason to go. For me, a quick two nights in London en route to music business in Oxford, and a few days of fun in Glasgow. And it was an inauspicious beginning: standing in the aisle of my deplaning London-arrived flight, prying my bag from the overhead bin, I was surprised and pleased when the man behind me reached up to help me place the bag in the aisle – until he then proceeded to crawl over me, and the bag, in his haste to – what, stand three persons in front of me in the Immigration line?
Boorish behavior simply has no place in the UK, a country where the milk of human kindness flows freely, and sincerely, albeit sometimes stuffily. I contemplated this while chatting with my London taxi driver en route to The Milestone, one of Red Carnation’s six properties in London, and the only one belonging to Leading Hotels of the World. A five-star hotel in London was a bit of a wild card, where the word “stuffy” tends to feature quite heavily.
What I was afraid of: stodgy, fusty insincerity, with a twist of, “Oh dear, another Yank.”
What I found: a smiling welcome from a friendly doorman, who handed me out of the taxi, collected my bag and directed me up the stairs to an equally as genuinely welcoming gentleman manning reception. Three minutes later, I was settled in the Park Lounge, a lovely sitting room just beside the lobby with – of course – a view of Kensington Park -- enjoying a glass of still water, the morning’s London Times on my lap, comfortably situated as my suite was “finished up.”
Here, a sense of peace pervaded, even while the energetic momentum of the staff gave the hotel its low-level buzz, which I was to learn was typical of this well-run, well-oiled machine: someone always on their way somewhere, getting things done. The low, cultured voice of Edward the Concierge drifted through the doorway from his desk in the lobby, where he first chatted kindly with a guest who needed their car, then picked up the phone to change a guest’s dinner reservation to one half-hour later. As I waited, I was tempted to wander in and ask Edward that question we all want to ask of every concierge – you know, “What’s the craziest thing a guest has ever asked for?” But he was so diligently assisting with real needs, it seemed a callous question, and a waste of his precious time.
So instead I absorbed the design style of Bea Tollman, owner of Carnation Hotels, whose infatuation with beautiful furnishings and knack for displaying them is reflected in the décor of all of her properties. Here there were patterns on patterns next to patterns, but nothing was at all overwhelming – everything muted, even fresh flowers to match lovely striped draperies. As I wondered which of my clients would be most happy here, I listened for origins in the accents of the guests – mostly British, some South African; mine, the only American thus far. (I was later told the mix is generally 50% American, 50% British.)
This parlor was a retreat to find a moment of peace – here was a gentleman on a laptop, sipping coffee and organizing his morning before departing for meetings. In the corner, a couple having their toast and tea, chatting about the day’s activities.
Sit here long enough and you will be asked several times – kindly, with real intent – whether there is anything you might like. A drink? Water? Tea? The assumption is, “Surely, you, dear guest, have needs. Surely there is something we can do to make your life better.” And, you know, there generally is – even if it’s toast, upright in a rack, served with perfect, creamy butter.
The couple in the corner called across to me to discuss the weather – it’s been nonstop rain for a month, and this in the middle of a drought – the wettest drought on record, we all agreed. They wished me a lovely stay, and I them, and off they went.
How I knew this was not your ordinary five-star: the music, just audible in the lobby, and in the lift. Here was that oddly endearing mix of tunes you can only seem to find in Britain – Hey Jude, followed by some sultry Corinne Bailey Rae, and then – Moon River. A metaphor for this property, I was learning – a bit of yesterday, mixed with modern, comfortable now – blended with sexy, vibrant notes of color and style.
This alluring mix extended itself to The Harlequin Suite, my home for the next two nights, and featured the hotel’s stylized monogrammed M on sheets,stacks of uber-fluffy towels, notecards, and Milestone Hotel business cards, printed with my name and tucked into a silver business card case on the well-organized desk. With two comfortable chairs, one with reading lamp, there is room to relax and catch up on reading, or meet others for a drink before dinner, or otherwise entertain.
Working? The desk was large enough for laptop and files, and featured two desk lamps, iPod dock, and an array of international outlets for forgetful souls like me.
The king bed was firm, with good crunchy sheets and just enough weight in the bedding. Six pillows, and my request for down fill (rather than fiber) was met, and exceeded my expectations. (Prior to a guest’s visit, a form is emailed requesting preferences in bedding, tea tray, etc. Preventive guest happiness, I call it.)
Need some spa time? Step into the massive marble bath, featuring Penhaligon’s of London bath products – Blenheim flavor! Soft lighting (as well as a lit magnifying mirror) made for a beautiful experience, helped in no small part by the drenching waterfall shower of bliss. (One evening at turndown, a bathside candle was left, alongside a small bag of bath salts. Of course I did.)
There was a surprise around every corner here, helped along in very large part by the cheerful smiles and greetings of the staff, to whom an instant connection cannot help but be made. I felt this immediately when greeted by the hotel’s GM, Andrew Pike, a genial gentleman wearing the most gorgeous pointed-toed boots I have ever seen on a man (and which are all the rage on well-dressed London men at the moment). Andrew kindly offered a good part of his morning to show me the range of accommodations, from standard king-bedded rooms (very large) to junior suites (huge), to suites (massive), and then bi-level suites (I believe the word I wrote in my notes was “super-amazing!”, a reaction I think to the dollhouse in the upper level bedroom that, when opened, revealed a large flat-screen TV). (This was actually not even as super-amazing as the TV in another suite that emerged from a table at the end of a king bed, a la James Bond. !!)
On several floors, corner rooms twinned together to make suites where families can share space together and still have room to spread out (they call these “interleading” rooms, a much more elegant term than “connecting!”). Six new apartments are available at The Milestone now, featuring modern kitchens and decorated just as beautifully as the hotel’s regular rooms – each apartment holds up to eight people, plenty of room for families with children, or extended families who like to share space. Having said that, however, let me mention that families with small children should avoid Apartment 1, which features a narrow, albeit charming spiral staircase between levels – not a wise choice for little ones, or those with uncertain footing.
I tried not to fall in love with the Audrey and Marilyn room, and failed spectacularly. Surrounded by black and white drama and fairy-light lit trees outside, this gazebo-esque alcove flanks the horsy-vibed bar (which used to be the stables, when this building was a residence). You are at once in starry Hollywood, right in the middle of London.
When The Milestone literature mentioned they have a small health club, I pictured two treadmills and a stack of towels. In fact, this was understatement at its finest: there is a lovely swimming pool (small, yes), and a substantial assortment of good quality machines – treadmills and ellipticals. There is also a treatment room where Fiona Keane – therapist to several celebrities whom she treats in their homes – is sole purveyor of therapies to alleviate discomfort (traveler’s tummy treatment, for constipated travelers) and bring bliss (hot stones massage).
On my first afternoon I was the grateful recipient of the evening’s hors d’oeuvres, delivered just before dinner – three dishes featuring small scoops of crunchy apple, creamy caramel sauce, and minced nuts, and a dish of toothpicks: instant mini-caramel apples! A delightful surprise.
A hotel will stand or fall on its room service, and here was the challenge: I ordered items which were temperature opposites – chicken pot pie, and honeycomb ice cream. When I phoned, I was greeted by name. I was promised dinner within 30 minutes, and I am not exaggerating when I say that exactly 30 minutes later there came a knock on my door, and dinner had arrived.
Temperatures? Perfect. Icy ice cream (which I ate first; and, why not?) and flaky-crusted, chicken-and-carrot stuffed pot pie, fragrant and rich with flavor, featuring the largest, most luscious pearl onions I’d ever seen.
Lavender-currant tea finished the meal, and I would fly back across the Atlantic for more of it. A dish of white and brown-sugar cubes completed the service.
High marks for all of it – presentation as well.
The next morning’s breakfast was more of the same perfection – either continental breakfast, featuring yogurt and fruit and breads, or an a la carte menu. My choice: Eggs Benedict (and more lavender-currant tea), which was served quickly and presented beautifully, along with toast and creamy butter, and an assortment of jams.
It was rapidly becoming apparent to me that two nights here was not going to be anywhere near long enough.
I’ve given you the description of what’s inside. What’s outside? The hotel sits directly across the street from Kensington Park, so most rooms have a park view – and some, like the Viscount Suite (a junior suite with king four-poster bed) come with a gorgeous corner aspect.
What’s nearby? Kensington High Street, featuring Whole Foods, an array of London multiples, and Kensington High Street Tube, home of the Circle and District lines.
Let’s face it – Americans are in love with the Brits. The way they talk. The Queen. All that bad blood from all those years ago? Gone, even before Diana married Charles. When Americans stay in London, what we really want is to step back in time and feel a sense of history. Blonde wood and leather headboards? No, thanks. Rich mahogany and a painted desk? Yes, please. Checkin kiosk in the lobby? I think not. Personal greeting from a doorman, and then escorted to your room by your personal butler? Bring it.
Welcome to The Milestone: all of the history without any of the dreadful plumbing. iPod docks on the beautifully painted secretary. A waterfall shower that can only be described by the gasp I emitted when I first stood under its deluge of heated bliss. Stunning. A hotel so modern that every comfort is imagined, and realized; where yesterday meets tomorrow in a satisfying blend of comfort and incredibly gorgeous drapes.
As with many things in life, we find what we are looking for where we least expect it. There are very few five-star hotels that conjure up a feeling of warmth and welcome, along with a perfect accommodations experience, such as I have found at The Milestone -- a place that is charming, eclectic, with real style and those pleasant visual elements which make a person feel they have been a guest in the finest of homes.
Which of my clients would be happiest here? Why, all of them, of course.